The year our family traveled the world: Chateau de Chenanceau

In one of my recent posts, I explained that Chenanceau was my favorite... here is why. First, it is furnished much as it was during full occupancy. Most of these Chateaus were only furnished when the king/owner was in town and then stripped down to bare walls otherwise. That makes them cold and uninviting for the most part (but still very impressive). This one has tapestries, furnishings and roaring fires in most of the fireplaces... made it seem downright homey.

Secondly, the history. It was originally built as a small castle on the banks of the Cher River so that water could easily be detoured around it to make a natural moat... not so much to keep individual soldiers away as you might think but to make it impossible to bring a siege tower up against the walls. Then they decided to build a large bridge across the river and while they were at it to turn that bridge into a major gallery and brilliant rooms above. I just love how it is one with the river.

Even more importantly from a history perspective however was the history of the women behind it. King Henry II gave it to his favourite mistress (Diane de Poitier) who was a bit of a gardening nut and designed a spectacular series of gardens very well integrated with the chateau. Then Henry II up and dies and his wife (Catherine de' Medici - yes, of the Florintine de Medici's) boots out the mistress and decides to one up her gardening efforts by designing and building even more spectacular gardens and bigger and more elaborate bedrooms, etc.

When Henry III died at a young age, his wife (Louise of Lorraine) moved in and put an end to the lavish parties and commenced mourning. She was required to wear white by court protocol but her mood was clearly black as she spent most of her time in her bedroom which is the darkest room I've ever seen.

A couple of hundred years goes by and Louise Dupin takes over and brings it back to its original splendor... but this was just before the revolution so it was extremely fortuitous that she was well liked by the locals as she managed to save the chateau from certain destruction. Finally, Sister Simone Menier (of Menier chocolate fame) uses it as a hospital for WW1 soldiers at her own expense... France finally comes to its aid and makes it a state treasure.

But the most important reason, I love this one best is because of the architectural details. Arches? This one has the best and most innovative yet. The layout makes sense (most of these are so big you need a map to get around). And none of the rooms (except the gallery) are so large as to feel uncomfortable. I'll let the pictures do the talking. Enjoy!

Our first view of it

This is the front door... but its much longer than it is wide.

They built it in the River so the moat is easy to keep filled.

This is on the land side of the moat to protect the small draw bridge

I love these arches... and the door bears the coat of arms of the original builder/owner on the left and his wife's coat of arms on the right (hers is a mix of his and her fathers). Note Francois I's salamander at the keystone.

The guard's room.... nice spot for them!

Nice fireplace too!

Note the original floor tiles... the brown is what remains after the porcelain has been worn away.

The entrance from the guard's room into the Chapel.... this will seem all the more ridiculous on the next picture.

I love these arches. This chapel was saved by Louise Drapin by filling it with firewood so that when the revolutionary types came looking to smash any religous symbols they thought it was a firewood storage room for the guards.... with the doorway on the previous slide! They must not have been paying much attention that day.

English grafitti inside the church from the Mary Stuart's (Queen of Scots) personal guards. "Man's anger does not accomplish God's justice - dated 1543. There was another piece that said "Do not let yourself be won over by Evil - 1546". .